The target doublet for recreation is a circa 1470s south German style for practical use in conditions that recreate its historical context - in the field, worn under armor or as a standalone garment by a combatant with no personal support from staff or servants.
Fencers wearing doublets in all kinds of situations
We decided to use the illustrations from Hans Talhoffer’s final fencing book, Cod.icon. 394a. Now part of the Bayerische Staatsbibliothek in Munich, Germany, it likely was commissioned by Graf Eberhardt von Württemberg and completed in 1467.
It’s great for this project because it depicts fencers wearing doublets in all kinds of situations.
Snatched Waist
The illustrator depicts all fencers with an acute taper atop the iliac crest of the pelvis - the snatched waist that defines the silhouette of the fifteenth century martial physique. The doublet is medieval shapewear - it’s responsible for tapering the waist at the correct spot to achieve the critical silhouette, and when worn with leg harness, will function to transfer the weight to the wearer’s hips.
Hook & Eye Lacing
The doublet opens not only at the front like a modern button-up shirt, but also along the sleeves with a split that bifurcates the wrist opening and runs all the way up to nearly the armpit area. It appears that metal eyes are visible poking out from inside the sleeve and that the sleeve is done up by tightening a lace or cord that has been threaded through the eyes. Sometimes, the lace appears to be omitted entirely.
Detachable(?) Sleeves
Most of the fencers are depicted with sleeves that are pointed to the torso with laces; but loosely, so that the lower part of the sleeve has come away from the doublet’s armhole to expose the undergarment (likely a linen shirt). Three sets of points affix the the sleeve to the doublet and can be worn loose to leave the gap, or done up tight as depicted some images where the sleeve-torso seam is illustrated without any gapping.
All sleeves appear to be affixed at the shoulder, so these are either sewn onto the torso at that point or laced taut.
Hosen Suspension
The hosen appear to be pointed to the doublet with three pairs of laces plus one in the back. We see pairs of laces at: (1) 1 and 11 o’clock at the top of the codpiece, (2) 2 and 10 o’clock, (3) 3 and 9 o’clock, and a single pair at 6 o’clock.
Additionally, a couple illustrations appear to show another pair of laces at the 12 o’clock position, above the codpiece.
The total is seven or eight pairs of laces for doublet suspension.
Next Up: Patterning
Part 2 is to render these illustrations into usable patterns to recreate the style of doublet depicted. Summertime is soon so we’re thinking to start with linen.